원정 개요

BC at 3800m close to Gampa
ABC at 4800m on ridge northwest of Dranglung valley
C1 at 5400m snow basin southeast of mountain
C2 at 5800m glacier above Icefall

First from BC trekked to point 4984 Tserpo Ri to have a view of mountain from the south and looked possible East Ridge. Then went from BC for 3 days climbing Naya Kanga (5846m) and turned back just under 5700m because of avalanching; climbed its North Ridge by all members and Phurba and Mingma Sherpa; reached this point on 14 Oct.

Arrived BC on 15th and rested. 16th from BC went up Dranglung stream by all members and Sherpas while Pritt went to Yala trekking peak with separate group. (Pritt rejoined expedition on 17th). From C1 up on icefall to C2. 20th from C2 north to col east of mountain. From Col, up East Ridge for top but 40m above col on East Ridge, found knife-edge ridge, north side vertical unconsolidated snow and south side also vertical and too dangerous to negotiate, so climb finished here by all members and 2 Sherpas to cook.