원정 개요

BC at Yalung Glacier on rocky area
C3 at Great shelf's lower edge.

Um spent 5 days at C3 waiting for good weather for summit push. Got bad throat infection which made it difficult for him to speak above whisper.

On 22nd April made a C4 at 7600m and on 23rd to 7800m (Um, Ha, Shin, Pasang Namygal and Phur Gyalzen) and stopped by heavy snowfall and heavy cloud cover so down to BC on 23rd April.

Left BC for another bid for top 28th (Um, Ha,Shin, and 6 Sherpas) to C1, to C2 29th, C3 30th; stayed in C3 to 3rd May because very strong wind. 4th May Um to new C4 at 7900m with 6 Sherpas and 4 Sherpas back to C3 while Um, Pasang Namgyal and Phur Gyalzen stayed in new C4. 5 May Um and they 2 Sherpas left C4 at 3:30 am and on top at 3:08 pm in clear weather but strong wind. Down to C3 at 9:00 pm and BC 6 May. Climb now finished.

Fixed total 3500m; BC to C1 800m, C1 to C2 600m C2 to C3 800m, C3 to upper C4 700m and upper C4 to top 600m.

Oxygen:

Um used climbing from upper C4 to top; took it off at top for 30-40 minutes taking pictures, on again intermittently climbing down from top to upper C4.

Sherpas clmbing from upper C4 to top, while on top and down for top intermittents to upper C4.

Sherpa summiters:
Pasang Namgyal, 31/1/73, Khumjung, Everest North 21/5
Phur Gyalzen, 16/4/70, Thami, Yilajung, Everest 22/5/03, Cho Oyu 27/9/03