원정 개요

Yamamoto - 19 May 70

Today 12 members to KTM with 5 left in PKR and other 3 hope to come tomorrow: Murata, Miyake and Nagatari.

Yonemoto same pain still, but in few days complete recovery, not so strong yet. Otani right foot 2 toes frostbitten, lost ends 3 upper teeth, but chest recovered already.

Kikuchi cremated at Tukuche village in dry Kali Gandaki bed on 12th May. Will take ashes to Japan and give ashes to parents at Tokyo airport ceremony.

Requesting seat CCU/TKY, for arrival 23rd night 9:00 Pan Am (ed KTM IAC 21st May).


Naoji Sakai - 6 May 70

Sakai was at adv Base Camp time of most accidents; still in base camp because 2 injured men now there since 2nd May. Now trying to reach dead body in glacier - or 2 injured with colleague at Tukuche village while search for body.

Trio started at 2:30 am from C2 about 6300m 30th April. Reached summit at 2:00 pm and stayed 30 mins. Placed flags of Waseda Univ and Japanese and Nepali and taking photos. Kikuchi very tired so we will reach 6300m camp late and maybe reach there about 8:00 pm. Reached Junction Peak about 6600m at 8:30-9:00 pm and after peak, descending Kikuchi slipped fell only 15 minutes above C2. Tied together so 3 fell together 300m on south side towards Miyagdi Khola glacier. 3 were unconscious 1-1/2 hours. About 10:30 Yonemoto sent accident message to adv base camp by walkie-talkie. Yamamoto said they should pitch tents there where they were, but men confused and threw it away; but nights not very cold or windy. 4 members including Yamamoto sent at 11:30 pm to C1 and they reached there about 2:00 am 1 May. There already 4 members and of these 2 members went to C2 starting about 2 am.

About 5:30 am Yonemoto sent news to Yamamoto in C1 that Kikuchi slipped again from bivouac. Slipped slowly and other 2 tried catch up with him and stop him but unable; Kikuchi fell another 200m. 8 am 3 members from C2 reached biv site and 5-6 others including doctor reached C2. Otani and Yamamoto able walk to C2 where doctor took care of him.

Kikuchi body's could be seen through binoculars from spot C1 and C2, but could not be reached because very dangerous terrain of crevasses and seracs.

Yonemoto's left hip bruised, Otani breast bone maybe broken.

Kikuchi's family asked cremation and will done at Tukuche village and ashes taken to Japanese by expdition.

Base 3900m, C1 4300m

Advance base 5150m beyond Dhampus Pass. After advance Base established 1st 2 camps abandoned and 2 camps made above adv base:
1st 5800m
2nd 6300m
Adv base now called base.

Waseda University expedition

Left Pokhara on 3 April 70.


D. Kykushin - 31st March 70

Members to PKR 2 days ago, 2 members tomorrow. Rest of members and 2 Sherpas, Ang Temba and A.T. III, and kitchen boy and liaison officer to PKR with all baggage (except rice & veg?) in charter departure 12:40. About 1 week PKR/base camp; dep PKR 3 April.

Base at 3900m (Dampus Pass, Hidden Valley advance base):
C1A - 4800m in Hidden Valley
Adv BC - 5000m
C1B - 5600m
C2 - 6200m
C3 - 6600m

Summit attempt about first of May. Same route via NE Ridge as Swiss.