원정 개요

BC due south of mountain.

Local guides (had never heard of Tripura Hiunchuli) took team to wrong valley and 10 days lost. Northern part of Jagdula Khola very difficult and had to fix 1200m cross river to reach BC. First tried SW Ridge of S Peak intending to cross high glacier but this route above 4000m stone loose and too dangerous and not sure high glacier was really there (it is) so back to BC on 3rd. 4th followed river to west of mountain and bived at 3800m. 5th from river to small glacier and 2nd biv at 4600m just before glacier [Lentz, Pohl, Develamynck, Demesy, Bigey]. 6th one group bived at 4820m because Lentz had back problem, while Demesy and Bigey bived at 5435m just 100m below under SW Ridge of Pk No 2. 8th 1st group stopped at 5500m on ridge and down to 5230m because no more time left for climbing. Demesy and Bigey went to summit of Peak No 2 at 5:30 pm in very deep all the way and again some place bad ice; very near top Bigey put ice into snow which unexpectedly turned out to be thin place in cornice and returned to 5435m at 8 pm (had headlamps). Route not difficult to find but snow was bad.