원정 개요

Approach: Lukla, Namche, Thame, Tengbo

BC 18/04 4307m (at Tengbo)
C1 21/04 5300m below Tashi Laptsa
C2 26/04 5700m below Tashi Laptsa east side

On 19/04 team ascended to 5300m on Tashi Laptsa to acclimatise and descended to Tengbo the same day.

On 21/04 teanm ascended to 5300m, set up a tent and stayed the night. In the afternoon, a lot of precipitation left about 30cm of fresh snow. They had gone up in their running shoes, but due to the snow they wore the boots on the descent. Initially they wanted to leave them at their camp with their other gear (sleeping bags, mattresses, crampons, ice axes, down jackets, rope, ice screws, belaying plates, prusick slings, gas, stove). On 22/04 they descended to Tengbo.

They rested in Tengbo for a few days. On 26/04 they went back up to their tent at 5300m but when they opened the tent, they noticed that some of their gear was gone, however, not all of it, which was interesting.

Items that were stolen from the camp at 5300m:
Double rope 60m
Crampons
1 harness
3 ice screws
Abalakov hooks
Slings
Pully
1 down jacket
1 pair of trousers
Belay devices
Carabiners

After they noticed their loss, they packed up the tent and ascended to about 20m below the Tashi Laptsa Pass and pitched their tent at 5700m. On 27/04, they packed everything and descended to 5300m where they hid their equipment behind a big boulder. The team descended to Tengbo.

On 28/04 they walked to Namche to replace their equipment. They found one double climbing rope in Namche and other essential equipment things. As Cuder got food poisoning, they and stayed in Namche for three nights.

On 01/05 they went back to Tengbo but the weather was bad. A lot of precipitation and snow. On 05/05 they decided to abandon the climb as they could not extend their stay in Nepal.

On 07/05 they went back to 5300m to pack their gear. Very windy day. On 08/05 they went to Namche, on 09/05 to Lukla.

The route can be attempted from the east or the west side of the Tashi Laptsa. Team got a good glimpse of the route. It was dry, but not as dry as they expected. They might try again, but probably in autumn.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Fixed rope: None

Climb abandoned 05/05 due to bad weather.