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American Tengi Ragi Tau Expedition

Tengi Ragi Tau · 2019 · 가을 (3) · USA

원정 개요

Summit on 16/10 by both members.

10/10 from Thami to camp at 5000m
11/10 camped near Tashi Laptsa Pass
12/10 to base of West Face, camped at 5400m
13/10 to Biv1 at 6300m, small snow ledge, face maybe 70° on first day
14/10 to Biv2 at 6600m, small ledge on face
15/10 to Biv3 at 6800m, small ledge in the snow, terrible, small spot.
No reliable anchor.
16/10 started at bivy at 7 am, summit at 9:30 am. Good weather, cold, a bit windy.
Same day to Biv1 at 6300m, same location. Back to Biv1 at 4 pm.
17/10 to Thami all the way “death march”.
18/10 rest day in Thami
19/10 to Namche
20/10 to Lukla
21/10 Lukla to KTM

Crux at 6700m, M5+, tied together the whole time. Belayed with ice screws during the climb. Alpine-style ascent.

Oxygen: not taken, not used.

  • 내부 원정 ID10512
  • 원본 EXPIDTENR19301
  • 대장Alan Rousseau
  • 루트 (Route)W Face
  • 최고 도달고도6938m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 2명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Alan Patrick RousseauUSALeader성공--
Roberto Karlo (Tino) VillanuevaUSAClimber성공--

출처·참고문헌

https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/alan-rousseau-y-tino-villanueva-abren-la-virgen-cara-oeste-del-tengi-ragi-tau/ · 2019 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/tengi-ragi-tau-virgin-west-face-climbed-alpine-style-alan-rousseau-tino-villanueva.html · 2019 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19f/newswire-release-the-kraken-tengi-ragi-tau · 2019 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
Release of the Kraken, First Ascent of the West Face of Tengi Ragi TauVillanueva, Tino · 2019 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215469 · 2019 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
Sleeping in the SkyVillanueva, Tino · 2019 · 잡지 (3) · ALP