원정 개요

BC at plateau atop hill west of small river and east of small peak called Penlaka
C1 on glacier
C2 on col due north of Tengi Ragi Tau
High point at steep wall of North Ridge.

From C1 west to north end of col (point 5890m) on Schneider map of Khumbu. Very windy at col; up icy steep (650m) wall to rock slab where ice so thin and covered by snow to 6250m (top of wall is 6600m); fixed 250m ropes here. Stopped by rock slab where could find no hold and too dangerous to continue; so now on 5th May the only day of clear weather, so back to C2 by Fuji and 5 Sherpas. Fuji wanted to find alternate route but no other member went above 6000m and Sherpas did not want to continue the climb. Now only 2-3 days of food in C2 and only 100m rope left. Sherpas had really wasted a lot of rope in unnecessary places out of their concern for members age. On 6 May, descended to BC. Had tried to pass ridge on mountain right side on 28th April but waist-deep snow ended that idea; tried by same 5 Sherpas. Fuji only member above 6000m; all 5 others to 6000m but no higher.

Fuji arrived 17 Apr; to Lukla 18 Apr, arrived BC 21 Apr.