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Cross Peak Two-Person Himalayan Expedition

Taple Shikhar · 1998 · 가을 (3) · Japan

원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C1 at junction of Kangchenjunga and Gimmigela Glacier
C2 at lower part of South Face
C3 on rock ridge of South Face.

Route to C2 across steep small face where avalanches and stone fall descend (but no one hurt) at lower part of South Face of Taple Shikhar (Cross Peak). Arrived C2 on 1 Oct and stayed there six nights while snow falling Oct 1-3. 4 Oct two Sherpas going up to see route and fix it and worked on route three days. 7th Oct C3 occupied and 8th Oct to top at 12:55 pm - slept in C3 that night, in C1 9th Oct in BC 10 Oct. Mr Miyazawa stayed in BC throughout climb. Climb "very difficult for me but Sherpas helped me and thanks to the Sherpa I got to summit." Mrs. Miyazawa was last on summit from summit party. "I very lucky, protected by God."


Doug Scott - 15 Oct 1998

Mr Miyazawa drank heavily and was found one day "flat out" on glacier. Mrs Miyazawa and Sherpa to top at 1:00 pm 8 Oct. When they left BC several days later, were accompanied by 6 policeman to Ghunsa (where helicopter evacuated them).

4 Nov 1998 - Kangchenjunga leader Comerie said it was a party of Japanese who was found flat out.

  • 내부 원정 ID3221
  • 원본 EXPIDTAPL98301
  • 대장Nori Miyazawa
  • 루트 (Route)S Face-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6447m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Nori MiyazawaJapanLeader---
Misako MiyazawaJapanClimber성공사용-
Gumba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Kancha Sunwar SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Pemba Lama SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1998 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1998 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199938401/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-Himal-Taple-Shikhar-First-Ascent · 1998 · 웹사이트 (5) ·