원정 개요

Kogo, Twin Peaks Expedition

1st 3 members return KTM 10 days ago, Kogo came 3 days. 1 member to Calcutta already and another tomorrow and Kogo day after. All reach Japan 11th July.

Not able reach summit because last of May very bad weather. From C5 wanted to reach summit but for 7 days had storm strong wind and heavy snow. C5 7000m. 2 members stayed there: 1 leader and 2 subleader for 3 days. Summit 7350m (3.3 ft=1 metre). Lack of supplies forced them abandon attempt about 25th May

Sent porters to climb:
1) 6510m Taple Shikhar (Cross Peak) very hard rock and ice and very steep. Climbed 16 hours one day but reached only 1500m from peak - June 1st. Climbers, leader and Sherpa Ang Phurba from Namche - had to descend by Tyrolean traverse.
2) Sherpa Kunga Norbu from Namche and Kogo went to try Tsisima peak and its South Peak 6390m - more peaks 6800m - south peak. On 3rd June - reached both summits - 5800m was last camp; that explored Yangma Khola (Valley) near Kangchenjunga.

Not so difficult as Twins but 120m knife ridge very bad: had to cut off snow top of ridge - ridge at 6000m. Many crevasses near summit very dangerous but only technical difficulty was ridge. Kogo came to Nepal April 62 but this his first climb.


Tokyo Agricultural University Expedition and climbing Twins of Kangchenjunga massif members:
1) Ken Miyazawa 35
2) H. Muraida 29
3) Hayashi Komoda 25
4) M. Kogo 23
5) K. Miyazaki 22
Dr. S Tamura (physician) 34

Leave Biratnagar about April 1st
research on agriculture crops, soil, winemaking, etc.
as well as climbing - all members both mountaineers and researchers (ex dr. who only climbs and cares for health).
Financed by Tokyo Agriculture University
Peaks never climbed before but 3 reconnaisance from Sikkim side.