원정 개요

BC at Hinku glacier
High point at moraine at base of icefall 800 ft.

Stayed in BC to 17th except for recce on 14th to see C1 site and down to BC 14-15 hours constant snow and more intermittently fall over these days. Gave up idea of climb because weather looked like staying bad and even when cleared would have to wait for snow to consolidate. Expected to need only one high camp before summit.