원정 개요

1st BC west of point 5181 and south of point 5314 on the map
2nd BC slightly higher, northwest of 1st BC
C1 on SW Face
High point at SW Face.

Plan to attack mountain via South Face so 1st BC pitched (south of South Face: 27 April). Kitagawa and Dorchi Sherpa went to 5000m and down to 1st BC: went up very steep glacier: at 5200m glacier stopped and above way been overhanging rock so not possible to climb that.

Made 2nd BC only 20m higher and half hour walk to 2nd BC site slightly northwest of 1st BC on 30th April. Had made a high camp on 29th from 1st BC at 5000m on SW Face; only Dorchi down to 1st BC and he and Kitagawa made 2nd BC. 2 May both to C1. 3rd May both climbed to 5800m on NW Ridge at 10:00 am, 5 hours of the leaving C1. NW Ridge very narrow knife ridge with vertical drops on both north and south sides; mostly unstable loose rock with some fresh snow; this was impossible, so down to C1 to sleep and climb finished.

South Face is possible for technical climb with proper climbing gear, says Kitagawa.

Shogo never reached BC (altitude sickness).