원정 개요

Approach: Flight to Bhadrapur, jeep to Taplejung, trekking from Sekatum to BC via Ghunsa and Kangbachen.

BC 13/03 4600m
C1 17/03 5250m
C2 24/03 5560m
Smt 25/03 by all members and Sherpas.

Lots of confusion about the peak climbed and the route taken. In the meeting, Leal declared they climbed SPH4 via the West Face. Afterwards it turned out, the team climbed SPH6, via the East Face.

See
https://explorersweb.com/first-ascent-of-sharphu-iv-its-complicated/
https://explorersweb.com/sharphu-mystery-solved-first-ascent-it-is-of-a-different-peak/

Purnima Shrestha climbed as a camera woman, Leal with two personal Sherpas: Ngada and Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam).

Team spent almost a week exploring the area and searching for the best route. Climbed a few lower 5000m peaks nearby BC for acclimatization.

Team established two high camps on small platforms on East Face. Fixed a lot of rope. Summit push from C2 on 25/03 at 3 am. On summit at 2:40 pm. Very little space on the summit, they couldn’t spend much time on the top. Lot of cornices at the summit area, quite dangerous. 15 minutes on summit, everyone together. On summit day quite cold but clear skies. At 3 pm start descent. Down to C2 at 8 pm for the night. Next day to BC.

Crux: 60° to 70° climbing on rocky slope in sections from C2 to summit. Terrain between C1 and C2 very avalanche prone and dangerous. Team roped up in two teams. Above C2 lots of Seracs and crevasses. Descent same as ascent. Rappelled half of the way.

Trekked out to Sekatum on 27/03, jeep to Ilam. From Bhadrapur plane to KTM.

Climbing route: East Face

Oxygen: Taken to BC for emergency, not used.

Fixed rope: 1000m

Records: First Ascent

Members:
Hernan Leal (S)

Hired:
Ngada Sherpa (S), DOB: 19/10/2032 BS (02/02/1976)
Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam) Sherpa (S), AMAD-243-05
Purnima Shresta (S),EVER-241-09