원정 개요

BC at 5250m below rock of Island peak's east side on Lhotse Shar Glacier
C1 at 5300m Lhotse Shar Glacier's west side (just above glacier)
C2 at 5800m just above Lhotse Glacier's west side
xxx at 6100m at icefall of Lhotse Shar Glacier due south of summit.

From C1 to C2 difficult rock pillar. From C2 was ice and snow, very dangerous for snow avalanches (Koreans had fatal avalanche on Lhotse Shar). Waited for avalanching to stop but didn't. Had avalanche hit fixed ropes above C1 and those had to be replaced. Stopped attempt when 3 who reached highest point found huge crevasses at the high point and above: 3-4m wide and 300m across the icefall and also great avalanche danger from big snow field above there and where planned C3 at about 6800m (snowfield 45-50 degrees). So no safe place for C3. Planned route above C3 to Peak 38's East Ridge. For skies, snow at and near East Ridge appeared to be very hard, perhaps icy, so not good; also below ridge route would be stepped and meant many jumps. For crevasses would have required ladders (had none) and more rope to fix (had finished rope they brought).

Baum would like to return in 2-3 years with ladders, more rope and Sherpas to carry ropes and ladders. Another factor in decision to abandon climb was psychological effect of Korean's fatal avalanche.