원정 개요

BC at Drangnak on west side of Glacier
ABC Ripimo Shar Glacier, under West Face of Drangnag Ri
C1 at snowcave.

After establishing ABC spent a week acclimatizing; Normand and Hartmann climbed point 5965m northwest of ABC and mountain on 1 May and on 3 May all other members climbed it. Normand and Von Rotz to top of point 6705m (Ripimo Shar) on Schneider map on 7th May; very cloudy this afternoon.

Normand and Hartmann on 8 May to Drangnag Ri. On 9th Vidono and Scarsi left BC to go trekking as planned. On 9th Normand and Hartmann climbed Drangnag Ri's West Face to SW Ridge; at junction of face and ridge put C1 in snowcave after climbing snowfield 50-degree steep and 55-degree ice average some up 80-85 degrees with 14 pitches total up ice. Route had to be abseiled at night or very early in morning so as not to be hit by falling ice and rocks. Hartmann tired so stayed in C1 on 10th while Normand climbed SW Ridge to top, first part badly corniced (too vertical on section) and last 100 vertical meters had snow to top. Left C1 at 11:00 am (had gone to sleep 5:00 am that day) and got to top at 4:12 pm and back to C1 7:00 pm. Clouds came and went. 11th 2:00 pm down to ABC in 10 hours and BC at 6:30 pm.

On return to KTM, Von Rotz and Normand on 15 May summited Chekigo, a trekking peak.