원정 개요

BC at south of Nangpa Glacier
ABC at north of ABC
C1 at Nangpa La.

Climbing permit given by Nepalese government, but peak is in Tibet; made no attempt on it, but went to Cho Rapsek 6550m near Nangpa La.

When reached Nangpa La on 5 May found border pillar and saw Cho Oyu BC tents and knew Palung Ri in Tibet. 9 May went to climb point 6210m west of Nangpa La with Ang Phurba. 3 men climbed mountain via east ridges a rock ridges, then snow on top, a single climb for experts; left C1 at 4:00 am on top at 10:30 am and back to C1 at 1:00 pm and down to ABC same day. BC on 10 May, 11 May to Lonak.

Their Sherpa (Ang Phurba, Thami, 1961, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2) says mountain they climbed is called Cho Rapsek. On Schneider map, it is 6210m, high but team say it is 6550m high. He told New Zealanders he doubted Palung Ri was in Nepal; he was on first ascent of Cho Aui/Jasamba.

"It is morally unacceptable" that Nepal govt. gave permit and charged fee to climb "a Chinese mountain" and Chapman-Smith demanded a refund from Tourism Ministry.