원정 개요

Sharma, Tourism - 29 Oct 82

Abandoned 25 Oct, no reason given.
Arrive KTM 3 or 4 Nov. All well.


Agnew - 26 Oct 82

Agnew left BC 21 Oct. At that time expedition was at C2 and not likely to get much beyond.

3 Oct BC established at 13,000 feet
7 Oct C1 " at 16,800 feet
17 Oct C2 " at 18,600 feet
20th - 3 in C2
21st would have pushed out route towards C3.

2 more strong climbers had to leave 24th (arrive KTM early Nov) and with 3 departures, climb about over. Have to go over a peak to make C3 and this may be as far as they get.

Route = SE Ridge (Japanese 1970 route)
No accidents, frostbite or major illness except altitude.
RAF member left because of toothache - rock climber, but not for Himalayas.

Expedition badly organized and inexperienced leader; Green was not the person for the job.


Green - 12 Sept 82

Some doubt can get up originally planned South Ridge safely because it may be threatened by seracs. Alternate route from same starting point. Hope to Leave KTM 16 Sept and arrive BC 29 Sept.

BC about 16,000-17,000 feet on Lidanda Glacier
5 camps above BC
No Sherpas above BC
2 medical only oxygen

Bottom face part of route (1st 5000 feet) most difficult technically.
Ridge not extremely steep in general, but several rock bands could be.

British Army West Nepal Expedition 1982
Leave KTM 19 Nov on RNAC
Arrive KTM mid-Nov (2 return early, about 24-25 Oct)
Stay at Hotal Shakti on return

May have to go over to Japanese 1970 East Ridge route. Would start from Lidanda Glacier and join Japanese route at their C3 (6250m).