원정 개요

Note: Ohsasa's name given as Ozawa in JAC 1971

Ohsasa - 10 Nov 70

Ohsasa and Ishihara arrive today and others later this evening.
No 2nd attempt because of accident.
Ohsasa reached 7500m last C5.

Peak very difficult above 7000m because steepness, very hard ice. Almost whole route above C4 (6900m) to C5 fixed rope.

4 members reached C5:
Ishihara
Ohsasa
Ono
Tai
Miss Saigusa's high point was C2 5800m.

Fatal accident. No member saw it happen. Watanabe and Lhakpa Tsering at 1:15 pm could be seen from C3 just below summit and again at 3:00 pm could them see perhaps about 7800m and assumed they reached summit between these 2 times. They fell almost at C5, nearly 2 or 3 pitches above C5; fell to very near C4 which at 6900m. Cause of fall not known. Watanabe head injury; cremated at base camp and ashes now at embassy for taking to Japan. Lhakpa Tsering same head injury and spine broken.

Climbed by East Ridge (last year's expedition used almost same route). This year had last year's experience: 4 members this expedition twice or 3 times attacked summit last year and these men thus knew route.

Last year autumn 7400m highest point reached. Last year little late and this year earlier start and C4 establish very early this year. Last year C4 was highest camp whereas this year had C5, extra camp, in crevasse.

BC - 4000m
C1 - 5100m
C2 - 5800m
C3 - 6200m
C4 - 6900m
C5 - 7500m

Small rock found near Lhakpa Tsering's body, probably summit rock.