원정 개요

Approach: Bus to Besisahar, Jeep to Koto, trekked from Koto. 10 days trekking to BC via Meta and Phu Village.

BC 21/09 4700m
C1 01/10 5000m
C2 02/10 5500m
C3 04/10 6200m
Smt 12/10 by all members at 12:20 pm.

Phungi (PHNG; 6524m) on Nepal-China border in between Ratna Chuli and Himlung Himal, not to be confused with Phungi Himal (PHNH) just west of Manaslu.

Porters and guide until base camp. From base camp only members, no Sherpa support.

First summit push on 05/10, but couldn’t summit due to time limits. On 06/10 everyone down to BC. Three days of rest in BC, on 10/10 to C2 directly. On 11/10 to C3 everyone. Set off from C3 at 5:30 am, everyone on the summit at 12:20 pm. Stayed on the top for approximately 10 minutes. Generally good weather, a bit cold, but wind not too strong. Sunny for the whole day. Down to C3 at 6 pm for the night. On 13/10 down to BC.

Terrain 70-80° steep in some places. Most difficult part was the ridge from approx. 6300m to the summit. Corniced and exposed ridge. Team roped up for 5 or 6 pitches, with two double ropes. Descent same as ascent. Rappels down to C3.

Left BC on 17/10.

Trekked out from BC to Koto, Jeep to Besisahar and to Pokhara for a few days.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used

First ascent of Phungi.

Team part of Japanese Alpine Club.