원정 개요

BC 06 Oct 5100m (far from route beginning)
ABC 07 Oct 5500m
Biv1 16 Oct 6000m
Biv2 17 Oct 6400m
Smt 18 Oct by all 3 members.

Started from KTM on 25th of September.
Started trekking on 27th of September.
BC on 6th of October.
ABC on 7th of October.
Acclimatization camp at 6100m on 8th of October.
6200m on 9th of October.

16 October: woke up at 6 am, attack at 10 am, first pitch mixed climb, after easy, after hard ice climbing and easy until Biv1 at 6000m.

17 October: first pitch very hard ice climbing, then steep ice climbing, then M6 pitch and steep snow until Biv2 at 6400m.

18 October: ice climbing, then hard mixed climbing, then ice climbing and snow slope until summit at 2 pm, abseiling down to the footstep of the face, reached at 9 pm.

Good conditions in the NE Face, with no wind. Not so cold, not so much objective risks, no fear.

New route called "Peine plancher:". ED, WI6, M6, 1200m.

Team left BC on 22 October and back to Ktm on 27 October.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

Other peaks: 6200m peak for acclimatization, unnamed, above ABC, east of ABC.