원정 개요

BC at Lhotse Nuptse Glacier
Depot not slept in - across glacier from BC
C1 at snow cave on South Pillar.

From depot at 5400m the climb began with (rock climbing at the start). C2 on top of diamond tower where and of difficulties & laid back snow fields began. Very serious climbing even with fixed rope above C1; overhanging, loose rock, some traverses on snow (ropes of French appeared out of snow as sun melted snow in Oct). In Sept snow deep & unconsolidated & sometimes broke through it up to chest; in Sept snowed every night. Fixed rope on entire route from depot to highest point. Had hoped to do alpine-style ascent from snowfield but winds very strong & had to crawl & 1 member's incorrectly fastened helmet & ice axe blew away. Also very cold. 25th 30 degrees in day light so feared frostbite. Winds started at at 10 Oct & monsoon snowfall ended only about same day. Difficulty of climb: grade UIAA 7+ or 8- free climbing & aid climbing A-3. Stone fall injured no one but and fall size of big cupboard. Completed climb of difficulties perhaps through highest 400m again difficult - up to 90 degrees steepness between C1 & C2 & numerous places 70 to 80 degrees.

In interview with EAH after expedition, Wolfgang Pohl states that many expeditions from 1986 to 1994 actually climbed on the same route: S Spur to E Summit.