원정 개요

BC at 5200m Lhotse Nuptse Glacier east of Chhukung Peak
xxx at 6140m at South Face arete.

First acclimatized on British (Bonington) route to 6150m on 10 Oct, then down to BC. Started climbing a new route and got to 6140m on 21 Oct. Zangrilli had injured his knee on moraine below acclimatization route on 15 Oct, but still went up new route together with Pierson to 5850m on 15th and down to BC having been trying to find route above. Up on 14th but after walking an hour to bottom of face, Zangrilli realized he needed a couple of days rest. Pierson continued climb fixing rope. On 16th got 6000m and back to BC. 17th fixed to 6140m and back BC. 18th rested. 19th Pierson to top of fixed rope with more gear and BC. 21st Pierson up to 6140m and pulled down all rope because Zangrilli could not go up and route about too difficult for Pierson alone.

Route alreay modestly difficult mixed terrain with bare rock and ice covering some of it. Avalanche steepness 60-65 degrees but probably 90 degrees above where he stopped. Both want to come back to this route in spring '04, despite huge serac overhanging route. Weather turned bad on evening of 21st; snow and wind very strong.