원정 개요

BC at Lhotse Nuptse Glacier
Biv on Pillar.

Babanov started up 29 Sept, delayed by new snowfall and avalanching. Fixed ropes and down to BC with occasional nights in biv at 5900m. Up and down 10 or more times. Wanted to go to start of very steep section known as "Diable" at 6300m, biv there and then alpine style from there to Nuptse East I. Fixed ropes on some pitches ending at start of Diable. Stopped climb here: no rope to fix 200m more needed on the Diable, had to end climb on 7 Nov because of other commitments, wind very strong and "I was very very tired" having already climbed a total of 1500m but to a several points many times. Would like to return next autumn but with some friend partly to have others help carry up gear this very technical route.