원정 개요

BC on west side of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier east of Chhukung Peak
High point at high reaches of a glacier.

After arrival, did acclimatization climbs in area to 6800m on Bonington 1961 route. 15 May Blanchard, House and Prezelj started 3:30 am attempt on their Nuptse route, which had never been attempted before with Nuptse East I as their goal, 7804m high. 15 May steep wall 60-degree avalanche of hard climbing on mostly rock with same snow cover; biv at about 5900m, a pitch below where steepness eased off; 6:00 pm arrive at Biv1. 16th first day that weather was really nice, but made route harder because made snow soft; deep soft snow; 40 degree slope now East Face of Bonington route; biv at 6400m at 6:00 pm, having started at 8:00 am. 17th climbed area of ridge having flattened out to slope 30 degrees; snow better because wind had scoured it; started at 8:00 am and biv at 7200m at 2:00 pm where there was good safe place to put biv without much digging. 18th Blanchard built up a camp while House and Prezelj to scout where to take next and it looked reasonable but cold and windy. Stayed night at 18th Biv hoping to go up on 19th but weather not good (wind, snow and cold) and forecast was not favourable. Could have stayed another day with food and fuel they had, but 19th was a lot worse than 18th, so down to BC on 19th, down their route to Bonington route and down it, it was a more straightforward line. Climb finished.