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Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition Ngojumba Kang

Ngojumba Kang II · 1987 · 가을 (3) · Yugoslavia

원정 개요

BC west side of Lungsampa Glacier, north of a lake and SE of point 5360m
on Schneider map
ABC north of point 5420m, east of point 6088m, southwest point 5695m
C1 at plateau just NE of point 6073m and slightly lower
C2 east of point 6515m
C3 just below S Ridge of Ngojumba Kang II
C4 on South Ridge.

Route from BC led into Ngojumba Glacier. Ridge is 45-50 degrees steepness and real snow climbing with problem of wind. More technical problems between ABC and C2: rock 350m face above ABC which needed fixing rope and above C1 had abseil down from plateau to glacier couloir. Had thought to try to go to Ngojumba C3 on 13th Nov because of strong wind (Alikalfic was blown over twice on S Ridge). Route to C3 from C2 looked easy snow flank, quite broad.

Berljak left expedition early. He was organizer of expedition, is able to get funds, but now-a-days doesn't climb.

  • 내부 원정 ID313
  • 원본 EXPIDNGO287301
  • 대장Darko Berljak, Branko Separovic
  • 루트 (Route)S Face-S Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7743m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 13명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Darko BerljakYugoslaviaLeader---
Branko SeparovicYugoslaviaClimbing Leader---
Edin AlikalficYugoslaviaClimber성공--
Zdenko AnicYugoslaviaClimber---
Mario BagoYugoslaviaClimber---
Nives BorsicYugoslaviaClimber---
Davor ButkovicYugoslaviaClimber성공--
Zeljko GobecYugoslaviaClimber---
Jerko KiriginYugoslaviaClimber---
Boris KovacevicYugoslaviaClimber성공--
Branko OgnancevicYugoslaviaClimber---
Branko PuzakYugoslaviaClimber성공--
Mario RodesYugoslaviaClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Berljak, Darko · 1987 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Photograph of route with route line included.
· 1987 · 잡지 (3) · MM
Dodiri NebaBerljak, Darko · 1987 · 단행본 (1) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198820704/Asia-Nepal-Ngojumba-Kang-II · 1987 · 웹사이트 (5) ·