원정 개요

Uemura - 30 May 65

From C4 (highest) to summit hardest part of climb: crevasse halfway (at 7400m) to summit. Crevasse about 10m with another crevasse inside it (10m deep traversing face of mountain). Had go down inside and climb up other side; then 60m high icefall needing 30m ropes and 10 pitons and when came back from top surprised how difficult to reach C4. Night came and had to stay in crevasse all night at summit 5 pm; reached crevasse 7:30 pm. Next day C4 9 am (started 5:30 am at crevasse and after 1 hour meet support party below crevasse).


Kobayashi - 28 May 65

Rest of Meiji expedition will probably arrive KTM 30th.

Uemura and Pemba Tenzing Sherpa on April 23 on summit. Most difficult from base 5000m to C1 5500m and most dangerous; icewall 50m height with loose blocks. Accident March 29 to Masaru Irisawa; knocked unconscious by huge falling ice block slab on head and brought down to base; left side paralyzed one month with gradual recovery. Doctor stayed with him at base. Now all right, but did no more climbing; now walking back to Kathmandu all right.

April 7 accident to Sherpa involved no members; again ice block fell between C1 and C2.

Took 2 weeks establish C1 because of accident. Icewall again between C2 and C3; really icewalls all way from base to C3 (altitude 6400-6500m).


From Varma - 29 April 65 (message from Doctor)

Attempt to C3 recon party 3 Sherpas: snow and small avalanche in which 1 Sherpa fell and injured his back. Sherpa brought here day before yesterday from Jiri by Swiss; accident apparently occurred April 7th. C4 will be last camp: hoped reach summit by 25th.


29 April 65

Dorchi Sherpa (28) collarbone fractured and backbone slightly injured; caught in avalanche on April 7th. Took 9 days to reach Jiri from base. Expedition hoped reach summit 25th. All Ok otherwise.

At Shanta Bhavan convalescent ward now where Mahesh Banskota saw him.

Ngojumba Kang II 1st ascent on 24 April: Naomi Uemura, Pemba Tenzing Sherpa.