원정 개요

BC at west side of 2-glacier junction
C1 at east of BC on moraine
C2 in crevasse in snow covering pillar
C3 on pillar at end of snow cover
High point at West Pillar.

Acclimatized with Khumbu Trek. Climbed West Pillar to 7600m at start of very difficult section: about 80 degrees and very bad weather with strong wind and snow, so down to BC. Stayed in BC waiting for better weather and on 30th May to C2; 31 May in C2 because of winds; 1 June to C3 (that night wind more than 90 km/hr). In C3 were Blanco, Borja, Callado and Latorre and Tika Sherpa (34, Khumbu) so down to C2 on 3 June and 4 June to BC and all team to Hillary BC at 4900m for helicopter pickup 5 and 6 June to KTM.

Base camp kitchen boy, Sumba Sherpa from Junbesi, died 15 May very quickly from acute altitude sickness at base camp.