원정 개요

BC where glaciers meet (normal Makalu BC)
High point at top of glacier.

Used Japanese fixed ropes. On 7th Nov Allan, J. Kaplan & sirdar biv at 7200m intending to try for summit on next day. Was very windy on 7th, perfect day on 8th but now Kaplan was seriously ill from altitude & so had to go down. Kaplan was only client who had been fit enough to try for top. Others had altitude problems, diarrhea & general fitness problems. "Whole thing was a farce - a real cowboy affair." Helft not allowed to climb by HMG since he has Argentinian passport & no endorsement by American Alpine Club. Expedition was a commercial "rip-off" & it collapsed because of too little time, altitude & others sickness & clients incompetence. Clients were told climb was "easy." They were odd short plus windy weather.

Mitchell couldn't make it up mountain but told by OTT he could.

Original leader & promoter, Mark Miller was killed in PIA crash 28th Sept coming to Kathmandu. His organizing company then hastily hired Allan & Smith to take over leadership. They came to Nepal after group, arrived at BC a day after it was established & "led from the rear."


Mitchell - 7 Nov 92

Mitchell with main group arrived on 2nd day of walking very weak from illness in KTM on 3rd day of walk in 12 Oct carried to Tumlingtar and flew out 13th to KTM (illness was bad reaction to anti-malarial pill, said CIWEC clinic). On 24th Oct went by helicopter to Tashigaon with 1 Sherpa from KTM. On 25th am snowing heavily and porter unable to cross Shipton Pass and Sherpa and Mitchell not well equipped and 26th back to Tashigaon. 29th helicopter to take out sick Kaplan from BC and Kaplan and Mitchell chatted - and Mitchell realized no point in trying to go on to BC and join team. So same day Mitchell party trekked to Tumlingtar and flew to KTM on 4 Nov.

Mitchell leaves KTM 8 or 10 Nov.

Will return to Nepal for Everest N. Arrive KTM 22 August for acclimatization 10 day trek. Out There Trekking in UK, Himalayan Expeditions North Col route.