원정 개요

BC a little above junction of glaciers
C1 at Chago Glacier
C2 at 6550m Chago Glacier
High point at Chago Glacier.

Wanted to go to top from C2 several times carrying loads and acclimatizing. 13th Oct 4 members to 6800m in summit bid; too tired and down to BC for safety with decision to stop climb because of snow and not time enough for late attempt.

Obert and Saint-Martin left BC on 15th to descend for they were tired. Went with head cook and Louis Dollo to go to Tashigaon. Reached Mumbuk on 18th; 19th morning raining heavily that became snowstorm at higher altitude. 1 porter with them lost his way and died of exhaustion and exposure. 2nd porter died on trail for same reason. Jacques Saint-Martin fell down from exhaustion and very cold wind and slightly ill. 20th his body found by trekking group and buried in cave with rocks over it.

** 1 Rai above BC