원정 개요

BC on big ledge just above junction of Barun & Chago Glacier
C1 at Chago Glacier east of "g" and of central rock
High point on NW Ridge.

C2 never actually occupied but stocked with 32 man-days food and all equipment and fuel ready for climb planned to sleep there for first time on 12th April; all doing well and in good spirits. C2 to be occupied by 3 members; then Terrell got pulmonary edema that night and began to get him down at midnight and reached BC at 7:30 am 12th apparently much better but 3 pm started descent and required being carried. Got him to 16,900 ft by dark and trail too narrow to carry in dark; Sherpas summoned and next dawn began carry again but suddenly he became actually ill and died and was buried near where died. 2 members not acclimatizing well and Ken's wife had arrived with trekkers so now only 3 members returned to climb: on 17th to C1. Bruce sick again. 2 members to C2 on 18th and went on through to NW Ridge to 22,000 ft and then turned back though could have gotten to top (no technical difficulties) and slept that night at C1 - were "emotionally depleted" and had no support. Cleared mountain and left BC 20th April after giving their food to Makalu expedition.

* Illness was apparent edema but some puzzling aspects and this by no means certain diagnosis (to which Dr. David Shlim of H.R.A. agrees after talking with Ruggera).


Kangchungtse, Ministry of Tourism - 20 April 86

Terrell got altitude sickness at 5950m on April 11 at 2400 hours; taken to ABC at 8100 ft on April 12 by Ruggera, Madden and Langbons; arrived at ABC at 05:00 hours; Fortner, Ruggera and kitchen boy took him down from ABC towards BC and died at 5180 ft at 8:45 am on 13 April.

Not decided whether to abandon climb.