원정 개요

BC near Barun Pokhari
ABC at west side Chago Glacier
C3 under Makalu La
C4 possibly made by Demolombe and Margaine at Makalu La after others left them.

1st summit bid on 1st Nov by four members and two reached Makalu La, other two 100m lower. Turned back because late in the afternoon snow bad quality and 180 km wind and route now 50-55 degrees steep. All four returned to C3 and tent broken by wind icefall during night.

2nd Nov two members again tried for top while other three to ABC (two climbers never seen again). Other members spent 2 days at ABC, and 2 days at low BC, then 8th Nov to BC and left BC on 9th Nov leaving cooks and porters but no French members. Demolombe and Margaine "very determined" to reach summit, may have made several attempts; left BC to meet four trekking members at Lukla.

Jeanvoine and Moutel came to KTM 15 Nov by helicopter, Baillet comes today by scheduled flight from Tumlingtar; Germain ex-Tumlingtar on 18 or 19 Nov. Trekkers have not returned to France.

Moutel and Jeanvoine wait at least several days in Kathmandu for others return and flights to France; may move from Tushita to another hotel if decide to wait very long.


Ashok Basnet, Great Himalayan Adventures Trekking - 26 Nov 85

Two members have a little frostbite in toes: Dominique and Christian Baillet. Came by helicopter which attempted search for missing men but helicopter could not go above 7000m; saw nothing.

No more searches, no more hope for 2 missing men.
Dr. Moutel and frostbitten men have gone home.
BC staff have now returned to KTM as have other 4 climbers.


Messner - 13 Feb 86

Messner and Kammerlander found two bodies, one near the Makalu La and the other below it, during their own attempt on Makalu earlier this month. The one near the col was lying down but without backpack, down parka or gloves; one body remains where found, the other put into a crevasse.

Messner believes they are the two men missing on Makalu II in 1985 autumn French team.


Reinhold Messner - 14 Feb 86

I have a feeling they did reach summit before they died. it looked as though Demolambe died of exhaustion and freezing near Makalu La, the other man tried to make it down alone and failed.

Messner now knows the body near the col is Demolambe after having a telephone conversation with someone close to him and having described his clothing, etc.