한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Kangchungtse Summit Expedition

Makalu II · 1985 · 가을 (3) · Netherlands

원정 개요

BC at 5400m on ridge west side of south end of Chago Glacier
C1 at 5800m middle moraine of Chago Glacier
C3 at 7400m at Makalu La.

All camps at same sites at Italian early Oct in BC to rest for several days and then up. 9th Oct so bad weather no progress possible and all in C1 and C2. 10th Oct first party went to C3 in heavy snowstorm. 11 Oct good weather till 9:15 am, then snow fall again but went on to top and reached it 11:00 am. 13th Oct clear, beautiful day and all camps cleared and all in BC that evening. 14th Oct left BC and reached KTM 22nd Oct. Between C2 and C3 always deep snow but not difficult route.

Two members (Frank Merjenberg and Walter Roos) left expedition on the return trek and attempted to cross over into Khumbu via Sherpani Col, West Col and Amphu Laptsa. An unusually severe storm on Oct 16 trapped them just below Sherpani Col. They suffocated to death when their tents collapsed under the weight of 3 meters of new snow.

2 members failed to return from BC to KTM; it is assumed they perished in the deep snow of West Col-Sherpani Col region.

Walter Roos and Frank Merjenberg:

17-19 Oct trekking via Sherpani Col and West Col. Took with them no Sherpas, 3 days food only. Never turned up and now must presumed lost. Were due in KTM 4 weeks ago.


Hermann Tollemaar - 18 Nov 1985

All hope of finding them has been abandoned.


Naar - 6 May 1986

2 missing climbers were found recently dead in their tent on Sherpani Col. Probably died of suffocation under heavy snowfall.

Their bodies were found by a trekking party lead by Richard Salisbury in the following May 1986. The bodies were buried in a collapsed tent on the Barun side of Sherpani Col at about 5500m.

  • 내부 원정 ID208
  • 원본 EXPIDMAK285301
  • 대장Ronald Naar
  • 루트 (Route)W Face-S Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7678m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 12명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Ronald NaarNetherlandsLeader성공--
Frank Alexander MerjenbergNetherlandsDeputy Leader성공-사망
Ria De BarreNetherlandsClimber---
Pieter De JongNetherlandsClimber---
Tilleke LippmannNetherlandsClimber---
Walter RoosNetherlandsClimber--사망
Wim TeeuwisseNetherlandsClimber성공--
Lodewijk (Loek) VermeulenNetherlandsClimber---
Evert WeskerNetherlandsClimber성공--
Chris ZwartsNetherlandsClimber---
Ang Pasang SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Nawang Thile (Pemba Dorje) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--

출처·참고문헌

Naar, Ronald · 1985 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Ijle HorzonNaar, Ronald · 1985 · 단행본 (1) ·
· 1985 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198621902/Asia-Nepal-Kangchungtse-Ascent-and-Tragedy · 1985 · 웹사이트 (5) ·