원정 개요

Yasukawa - 30 Oct 76

C4 made by Mamoru Ohkoba and Lhakpa Norbu 10 Oct. Difficult rock slabs about 200m at 7400m = most difficult part of climb

1st summit attempt 12 Oct by Minoru Kaneko and Hideki Yoshioka from C4, but difficult slabs slowed them and had no time to reach top; returned to C4 after reaching 7400m and having put in 200m fixed rope for 2nd team next day's success.

Other attempts prevented by 1) food exhausted 2) very cold, strong wind.

Kaneko and Nara slight frostbitten toes. Others coming to KTM within a week.


Yasukawa - 8 Aug 76

Route is NW Ridge route same as Japanese expedition 1972 spring [reached 7000m].

No oxygen (except for medical use)
4 HA Sherpas and 1 cook, 1 kitchen boy and 1 mailrunner
2 members now in Kathmandu (arrive 5 Aug) and 5 others come 10 Aug

Leave KTM about 17 Aug; by bus to Biratnagar if possible, otherwise by plane to Biratnagar; caravan from Dharan to BC 3 weeks.

C5 about 7200m.

C3 to C4 ice wall but not so difficult; difficult part is ridge which "I think is knife ridge."
1 month climbing up: summit about middle October: 2 or 4 men, 1 or 2 teams.