원정 개요

Tollenaar - 2 Nov 74

Tollenaar arrived today, other's waiting at Tumlingtar for flight.

C4 established by Hopster, Banning and Tollenaar and 2 Sherpas on 11 Oct at about 7000m. Went up to 7200m putting in ropes that day but no place for camp above 7000m so descended to there and made camp on 12th. They intended to finish rope up to Makalu Col but by time reached 7200m were exhausted and went down and left job to other 3 (Sharma, Osinga and Reynierse) who reached C4 on 14 Oct at 17:00 and took sleeping pills. Sharma and Osinga slept for 36 hours. Osinga found when he awoke am 16th and found Dr. Reynierse missing leaving in tent his shoes, spectacles and rest of his equipment. Osinga discovered about 150m below camp something that looked like a body. Went down to it quickly and found it the body of Reynierse in totally frozen state.

Body buried in glacier on slopes of Makalu II near where found. Too dangerous to take down; memorial stove erected at BC.

Death and combination of high altitude, extreme tiredness and sleeping tablets, so climbing immediately abandoned, which was pity because would have made summit since all technical difficulties overcame. But didn't have the heart to continue - too bad. "Everybody wanted to forget that mountain at that moment anyway." Could have been on summit on 17th or 18th.

Everything went splendidly well up to that moment, excellent Sherpas and excellent weather.

Dutch altitude record established.
No illness at all; no avalanches, no incidents until Dr's fall.


MP Khanal, MFA - 31 Oct 74

3 persons in tent: Osinga, Sharma, Reynierse

C4 23,000 ft - highest camp sleeping on 15 Oct night and on 16th am when others found Ewout didn't get up, friends tried to awake him and he was found dead, had taken, too many sleeping tablets and this could be cause of death. Expedition abandoned leader says to LO writing.


Saltet - 9 Sept 74

2 more Dutch and 1 Indian arrive next week and follow Wednesday next week by Schedule to Biratnagar. Others leave this Wednesday 2:00 and in charter Avro to Biratnagar.

18 days to BC so reach 29th or 30th Sept
4 (perhaps 5) high camps
4 Sherpas, 3 kitchen boys and 2 mailrunners


Tollenaar - 31 Aug 74

Saltet and other 7 members am, 9 Sept; hope to leave KTM by 12th Sept to Biratnagar.

"This mountain is too big for us, but maybe if weather is good we can succeed." Being watched in Netherlands because would be Dutch altitude record: present record set by Jan Boon's expedition.

Will attempt French 1954 route, South Ridge
Expect take 20 days from Dharan to BC
4 climbing Sherpas including sirdar