원정 개요

BC at Langshisa Kharka
Biv at WNW Face in ascent
C1 at plateau at bottom of South Face in descent.

Furlan thinks correct altitude of summit is 6330m (from his very accurate altimeter). First did 2 acclimatization climbs: (1) on opposite site of valley up Morimoto peak 5260m, where biv there on its ascent face night of 30 Sept and down to BC next day; (2) 2 Oct went to NZ BC to plateau under South Face of Langshisa Ri at 5700m biv night and next day down to BC (1st climb was to see his route, 2nd to see normal route for his descent. Rested till summit push on WNW Face started 7th Oct at 11:30 am entirely alone (as had been on accliamtization climbs also). Face starts at 4700m and 2 very big and dangerous seracs so climbed a rock ridge between these seracs as safest line (top of ridge was 5360m). Left ridge at 5360m (was difficult climbing some parts of this complicated ridge); quite nice climbing on this ridge which had sun therefore warm rock. 2 pitches grade 5, some grade 4, rest grade 3. Reached bergschrund in serac (5820m) 8:30 pm and biv here for the night without sleeping bag (to save weight because had to take 2 ropes for descent of S Face), so cold night. 8th Oct started at 6:30 am up upper part steepest part of route, never less than 60 degrees & place 80 degrees, where had to traverse rock with bad snow on it and very difficult move. Rest of snow in upper part snow excellent (it was frozen - not ice). Reached SW Ridge 110m below top and followed right side of ridge just over to summit at 12 noon. From delicate traverse at about 5920m at 8 am climb was straightforward with no special problem ("beautiful climbing" here). At top quite cold and some wind so stayed 10 minutes briefly by walkie-talkie to doctor below and took photos. Descended ridge to where had left rucksack at 110m below top, then traversed 100m on South Face to normal route and down this route, rapelling almost all the way to the plateau at bottom of S Face which reached 5:20 pm when getting dark and he so tired he decided to biv here. 9th Oct down to bottom of mountain and around to BC (from 8 am to 12 noon). "I'm really happy because everything went just as I planned them and as I hoped they would go; I did everything by myself, found sponsors myself, planned it myself, climbed it alone and I feel very good."