원정 개요

BC below Chhukung Peak, west side of Lhotse Shar Glacier
C1 at rocky party (on face)
High point at biv in cave.

This time only 50m above last expedition's high point and line is possible. Problem to C5=none. They began from 7800m. This time put ropes to 8300m. Could not move above this bivouac point because of wind that blew up during night. Only 4 climbers did most of climbing work besides Wielicki and Hajzer (Dasal, Konopka, Osika and Pawlikowski) and then were exhausted after 50 days. On 30th Wielicki and Hajzer descended to BC because of wind and now no other strong climbers able to continue. Now also getting cold. Left BC 1 Nov.


From "Kazdemu Jego Everest", Dasal

Czeslaw Jakiel was killed instantly by an early morning (5 am) ice-block avalanche shortly after leaving C1 for C2. Jakiel was with two others who escaped injury.


To Ministry of Tourism
Mountaineering Section

Report about accident on Sept 15

Just after we established Camp 2 (at 6200m on Sept 14), we had 2 members in C2, 2 members in C1 (5750m). Our programme for Sept 15 was that, from BC will start next team to C1 (Czeslaw Jakiel, Walenty Fiut, Alois Brugger). They began walking from BC at 5:30 am crossing the Lhotse Glacier. At 6:20 am they have started to climb by snow stones slope towards the south face of Lhotse. After few minutes they have seen a big avalanche, it began very high on the right side of south face. They tried to escape, but avalanche came very quickly. Alois Brugger had fallen to the small crevasse. Walenty Fiut fixed his ice axe and kept himself. Czeslaw Jakiel walked last and they didn't see what he was doing, that moment. After avalanche came and Alois Brugger tried to find out friends. He found Walenty Fiut about 100m below, he was injured but alive and 20m for Czeslaw Jakiel, unfortunately he was dead, probably due to strong hit on his head (whole on back side). In the meantime avalanche pression had reached BC. Olev friends took binoculars and they have seen somebody running between victims. Immediately they started to rescue them. That accident have seen two members from C1 and they went down too. About 1 hour after accident, all members (except Kurt Walde and me) reached that place and began to help victims. They put Walenty Fiut on the board with diagnose...he has fracture left leg and hip and probably ribs. He was in very bad condition, before he lost consciousness and after he has been in shade. Alois Brugger was well. Members again have checked Czeslaw Jakiel, but he was dead. At 9 am they send Sardar Ang Kami to Namche Bazar for helicopter. Me and Kurt Walde reached accident place at 11:30 am. We decided to carrying Walenty Fiut to BC and secure Czeslaw body. BC we have reached at 4 pm.

On Sept 16 we carried Walenty Fiut 20 minutes down, BC where we found good platform for helicopter, it was about 5100m high. Their we made a biv. Afternoon we have gone to Czeslaw body and we have made a funeral. We left him in about 15m deep crevasse and fill up up ice, snow and stones, close to accident place at 5300m below the south face. On Sept 17 at 9:30 am we have got a helicopter rescue, we put Walenty Fiut on stretcher and he flew with leader towards KTM (11:30 am).