원정 개요

BC at Lhotse Glacier below near Chhukung Peak usual Lhotse Shar BC
C1 on face (50m above Czech's Lhotse Shar)
C2 on face (50m below Czech's Lhotse Shar)
C3 on face (100m below Czech's Lhotse Shar)
C4 on face (same as Czech's C4)
C5 on face (near Czech's C5)
C6 on face.

11-22 Sept daily snowfall meant could not make progress. From C5 went nearly to Czech's C6 and then made 600m traverse to left towards main summit and put C6 in couloir directly below Lhotse Intermediate at 60-degree-steep snow and ice. On 22 Oct reached 8200m on a ridge in difficult rock climbing with snow mushrooms very tiring to get around them. Now too far to top.

25 Oct 2nd summit bid, fixed ropes in 1st rock band at 8100m and returned towards C6 when Cholda fell. 29 Oct 3rd attempt reached C6 on 31 Oct. 1 Nov Hajzer and Fine (French expedition) tried to go on, but too difficult for them and turned back.

1st Nov Kukuczka and Dasal then decided that because of 3rd party failure to fix more ropes it was impossible for them to get to top. Probably another camp required. 17-20 Oct heavy snowfall and then winds began. Very high on mountain problem was lack of snow staying on mountain and everyone tired after nearly 2 months. South Face of Lhotse is for 1990 although perhaps big expedition can manage now.

Kukuczka arrived at BC 30 Sept; Fiut left to come to KTM when Cholda died. Pawlowski and Wielicki also left slightly early.