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BC 22 March - 4850m
1st attempt - direct (ended at 6000m 19th April)
2nd attempt - via Lhotse Shar SE Ridge (soloist Jaeger disappeared)
26th April at 7200-7300m.

During acclimatization period, attempted Ama Dablam and scaled Baruntse.


Austin French Embassy - 18 Aug 80

Nicolas Jaeger and Nicolas Bernardini attempted Ama Dablam's West Face and reached 300m from summit, then went to Baruntse and scaled it by North Face about 7 April. On Baruntse they put in ropes for French Baruntse team who were not strong climbers.


Bill Rosser - 18 Aug 80

Jaeger started up second time on 25th. On 26th saw him at about 7200-7300m at about 11:00 am. On 25th had stopped at 11:00 am, when clouds rolled in and snow sometimes fell after having climbed 6 hours. Next day was clear but we were too far away and Jaeger could have been out of sight on other side of ridge. On 25th Jaeger wasn't quite on Lhotse Shar ridge (at right of Jaeger's postcard).

Jaeger told Bill Rosser at his BC he and other Nicolas Bernardini had attempted Ama Dablam (no success) and Baruntse (success) as acclimatization climbs.

Jaeger also said his goal was to traverse from Lhotse Shar to Lhotse to Everest (up SE Ridge, down West Ridge/North Face to Lho La).

Bill Rosser connected with film-makers:
High Speed Productions
160 East 48th Street, NYC 10017


Zamada - 3 June 80

Jaeger's plan was to go to Lhotse Shar, Lhotse Main Peak, East Col, Everest, North Col, Rangbuk Glacier, Lho La, Everest BC on Nepal side. He was on SE Ridge of Lhotse Shar.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 23 May 80

Min: French crack mountaineer, Nicolas Jaeger, 33, 1978 Everest summiter, has disappeared in unknown circumstances while attempting solo ascent of South Face of Lhotse. We started climbing on 25 April, 10 days foodstuff in pack. He was last seen by Anna Tu crew members and they filmed him around 4:00 pm at an altitude approaching 8000m on 25 April.

Tu team filming snow leopard and other animals and now in Gokyo. Jaeger was on his way to Lhotse Shar. On 19 April, he had climbed up to 6000m on Lhotse South Face and came down to BC on 20 April. He said to Brigitte there was too much snow and frequent avalanches in that area so waited to go up right side. Hence via Lhotse Shar. Half dozen numerous search and rescue missions by helicopters on behalf of French embassy could not locate him although pilots did not hesitate to take very big risks always flying to technical limits. Idea of a search party which was contemplated by family of Jaeger and has now been abandoned as no reasonable hope of finding him alive is left owing to the very high altitude he had reached without oxygen, although he is specialist in high altitude survival.

According to Jean Mazeud, mountaineer from Paris, very difficult pass between Lhotse Shar and Lhotse at about 8000m. Possibility of very strong wind which could have blown him away; wind is from south and very difficult to descend solo.

Statement left by Jaeger with French embassy taken by his mother and ret published in KTM; it said not to search after 15 May.

Ministry expressed deep sorrow at disappearance.


Ed Hillary - 13 May 80

It was an incredibly hazardous undertaking in my opinion, and if it had been successful, it would have been a remarkable effort, but we cannot be surprised if it was unsuccessful. He had done same unbelievable climbs and he knew the risks he was taking.


Austin - 13 May 80

Jaeger had 8 days food with him can be extended to 15 days. He left 25 April and to face climb 26th.

There is something at about 6600m, could be body and bag.

Very clear today. Cannot be sure of anything about clearly; may make another search after about 3 days. Will take 5-6 days of extensions.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 8 May 80

Day before he left KTM Jaeger told Sharma, after 15 days from starting climbing he can presumed dead. He started on 24 April, so 15 days expired on 9 May.

After 15 days if I don't return to BC, please don't search for me. Presume I am dead. Others of his expedition have gone to Lhotse West Face BC (arrived there 5 May) because he might descend via West Face.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 May 80

Letter from Jaeger dated 17 April to Sharma says will start for Lhotse 24 April and maybe back from climb to BC 2 May and 5 May at Lukla to return to KTM


Jaeger - 11 March 80

Lhotse South Face impossible to climb in classical technique because especially lowest part exposed to avalanche and stone fall. The way to try is alpine-style. My speciality is solo climbing past 10 years; done a lot where technical problems also very serious though not so high.

2 other French coming with Jaeger at BC and acclimatization climbing on Island Peak, etc, but will go to Lhotse only as far as biv on foot of mountain at 5300-5400m.

BC very low at 4800-4900m just above Chhukung. Friends will wait at Everest BC for no possibility to descend by face.

Leave KTM 13 or 14 March to Lukla. 1 week to BC and then 1 month acclimatization climbing; ready about 25 April for Lhotse.

Jaeger's route not attempted before. Japanese in 1973 and 1976 were like Italians 1975: tried to get onto ridge by Lhotse and Nuptse.


Jaeger - 12 March 80

Single push to summit from BC in 6 to 8 days.

So far major achievement in solo climbing is Messner's Nanga Parbat in Aug 1978 by new route. Lhotse Face is higher and more difficult.

Everest SW Face 2250m, 49 degrees average slope
Lhotse South Face 3200m, 57 degrees average slope

1975 Lhotes - 18 climbers, 60 Sherpas, 24 tons to BC, oxygen

Jaeger Lhotse: 1 climber, no Sherpas above BC, 1 ton to BC, no oxygen.

Most difficult part of route is top of snow and bottom of rocky section 1700m above feet of face.

Cassin: "South Face of Lhotse is not only two Eigerwands, its is a monster." (Eigerwand in Bernese Alps 1600m)

Messner: South Face of Lhotse is 3500m and is one of highest and most difficult walls in the world ... The direct ascent a problem for year 2000 ("The Challenge", p.32).

Jaeger what is rec is to dare to try things the others don't.


Nicolas Jaeger

Born 20 Oct 1946, resides Paris
Married, 2 daughters (12 & 3)
Physician specializing in sports medicine and H.A. physiology; also professional climber: high mountain guide and degree but doesn't do much guiding or teaching.

Over 100 solo ascents in Alps 1964-1976, 20 of then 1st solo ascents of high standards routes.

Leader 3 expeditions to Peruvian Andes 1977, 78 and 79, all alpine-style, 13 solo ascents of which 9 on new routes and 1 unclimbed peak.

Everest summit 15 Oct 78 - world altitude record on skis 16 Oct:


* The book "Canadians on Everest" by Bruce Patterson (pp 186-7) says that the Canadian climber Roger Marshall on 21 October, 1983 found Jaeger's body inside a tent less than 500 vertical meters from the summit of Lhotse Shar.