원정 개요

BC at west side of Lhotse Glacier
ABC on glacier
C1 on South Face
C2 on South Face
High point at South Face.

17 Sept climbers on fixed ropes as their way to make C3. Kovaliev, Turkevich, Koval, Glazov, Bondarev and Dorro when avalanche hit (started from 7100m) at 6500m and swept down Bondarev, who was leading and may be not attached to rope securely. Swept down to 5200m or more (don't know). His jacket and backpack found at about 5300m within one hour but body not found in very deep snow.

18 Sept decided to stop climb and took down camp in search and more and more snowfall. Searched in dangerous snow conditions. Kept searching actually until 1 Oct by which time spot where avalanche had hit 10+ metres deep. C1 had been left while decided to reestablish C2 and continue climb and also to search C2 area more widely. Made C2 again on 3 Oct and started up again from C2 when radio message from ministry for emergency saying weather not going to improve so recommended stop climb and resume climb in spring. Reached almost 7000m on fixed lines. Hope to return next spring. We rescuers never leave a lost collegue. They planned to climb South Face of Lhotse-Lhotse Shar to a col between these two peaks about 8200-8500m, which no previous climbers had done. From there, half of members to go left along Lhotse's East Ridge to its central summit [Lhotse Middle] while other half members to go right along Lhotse Shar's West Ridge to its summit at same time.

** Members who attempted Lhotse Shar are Anatoli Andriouchenkov, Vladimir Bondarev, Constantin Dorro, Alexander Glazov, Kurban Kurbanov, Shanavaz Shanavazov and Igor Slobodtchikov.


From Russian web site:

"Though in the permit of the expedition mentioned only Lhotse Main and Lhotse Shar, the main goal is to attempt the unclimbed Lhotse Middle summit."