원정 개요

When Desimone, Kizaki, Pasang Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalgu Sherpa and Gelu Sherpa reached C3, the climbers found that Gyalgen Peak was too far away from the camp. Then they decided to go up to a higher point to look at Gyalgen. The climbers and four Sherpas climbed the West Ridge of Jugal Himal (5872m). Both Harrisons stayed at BC and did not go beyond BC. The team returned to Kathmandu on Nov 10 and will leave on different dates. Leader leaves on Dec 01.

One of the members of the 1955 Gyalgen Peak Expedition Mrs Evelyn Camrass McNicol, who was trekking member of 2005 Gyalgen expedition, said that their Gyalgen peak is wrongly placed on the HMG (Finn) map. The place where map shows Lampogan West is actually the Gyalgen Peak which was climbed/summited by the 1955 expedition. Mrs. Camrass indicated the 1955 route on map while she was visiting Miss Hawley.

BC at top edge of dense forest and just before icefalls starts (bad icefalls) on south slope.
C1 at level spot in between icefalls.
C2 at level section between icefalls.
C3 at top of series of icefalls.
High point at around from which to gain view of their mountain high point was southwest of C3.

Sherpas who reached high point:
Pasang Sherpa, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga, 19/2/78
Mingma Norbu Sherpa, Lokhim-8, Solu, 3/12/67
Gyalju Sherpa, Taksindu-6, Solu, 3/12/63
Pasang Gelu Sherpa, Lokhim-9, Solu, 17/1/79


Gyalgen Peak Itinerary
Dates: Oct 12 - Nov 15, 2005

Oct 12 - Arrive in Kathmadu

Oct 13-17 - Last minute arrangements for departure Load bus and depart for village of Jalbire, which is situated on the Balephi Khola. Walk for an hour outside of town and camp.

Oct 18-21 - Follow the Balephi Khola until reaching the village of Tempathang.

Oct 22 - After Tempathang the Balephi Khola gorge narrows until we reach a fork in the river. The river heading north drains glaciers from the Langtang Himal and the other river running from the east is draining run off from Dorje Lhakpa's glacier and Phurbi Chyachu. We'll camp here for the night.

Oct 23 - Rest day. Today we'll take a day off to wash clothing and to check our food stores.

Oct 24 - The Eastern fork will take us to our objective. We'll pass a side river running off of Dorje Lhakpa glacier and Phurbi Chhyachu will be visible straight ahead. Today will take us to 3500m with forests of beautiful pines and open meadows. We'll be camping for the night in a kharka with huts and other enclosures for our staff.

Oct 25 - Today we'll hike further up the valley and will arrive at our base camp just in front of scouting out options for getting onto the glacier.

Oct 26 - We'll spend today moving gear to our advanced base camp and fixing ropes if needed for the start of our climb tomorrow.

Oct 27 - Early morning we'll start to ascend the glacier setting up camp I. If everything goes well we'll stay up at camp I. This might also be the last time for a few days that we see the trekkers in our group. Once we have everything we need hauled onto the glacier we'll have the staff move everything from ABC to BC.

Oct 28-Nov 4 - On glacier, will try to summit Gyalgen Peak and then head back down. Trekkers can take day hikes or take staff and visit Panch Pokhari. If trekking group leaves area they need to be back to base camp by Nov 3, in case we finish our climb early.

Nov 5 - Return to BC.

Nov 6-8 - If all went well on Gyalgen Peak and we feel up to it, we'll try to climb a 5800m peak that isn't named that sits next to Phurbi Chhyachu peak.

Nov 9-13 - Head down the valley back to Tempathang.