원정 개요

BC 25/10 5100m on Ripimo Glacier
ABC 26/10 5400m
Smt 28/10 by all 3 members at 4 pm.

Ascent schedule:

The trio first intended the Drangnag Ri South Face, which is still unattempted, but abandoned the idea because "we found the approach very complicated and we did not have enough time." Meanwhile Zabalza intended at first the SE Ridge before shifting attention onto the SW Ridge being less dry.

Oct 25: From Na Village to BC

Oct 26: From BC to ABC (moved with same tent)

Oct 27: "loaded the material to the wall and climbed several lengths, among them the most difficult of the track: a 6c + collapsed chimney that Ruiz Blin solved as if it were next to the ground. That night we slept again in the ABC, where the temperature dropped to -16ºC."

Oct 28: "left the ABC at 3:00 in the morning so, at dawn, we would be climbing longs from the top with difficulties between V + and 6b. Towards 11 o'clock we reached the beginning of the SE Ridge (about 6000m), where sections of ice and rock alternated, with conditions that varied greatly depending on the orientation. After several hours of climbing, the edge seemed never to end. Sections of IV and V grade with others of very bad rock made the climbing really delicate. In addition, not being very well acclimatized, the awareness of the height was accentuated at every step. We reached the summit, exhausted, at around 4:00 pm. Our idea was to detour the ridge and go down where we had climbed but, due to how long it was, we decided to change our plan to descend rappelling towards the glacier by a channel on the west side starting 30m near the summit.

The descent turned out to be very long, and what seemed like a quick retreat became endless rappels. The lower we got, the poorer the rock was. Thus, I do not think it is the best option for descent. Around 23:00, after about 18 rappels, we landed on the glacial crevasse where we continued sailing in search of the heat of the store.
On the glacier, we still had to mount several rappels to finally get back to the store at 12 o'clock at night, after 21 hours of incredible but strenuous activity."

Route: “Bihâna” (amanacer/breaking dawn), 1500m, ED+, 6c+. First 500m on a granite wall, then 1000m on the ridge. Descent by a couloir on the west side.

No proof for summit: "Sorry. We went down almost at night and did not take pictures."

Team left BC on Oct 29.

Records: 1st ascent of the SE Face-SE Ridge.

Fixed rope: none