원정 개요

BC 12/10 4480m at Dharamsala (on Manaslu Trek)
ABC 14/10 5700m at base of SE Face
C1 18/10 6100m at middle of face on a small ledge.
Smt 19/10 by Mena, Morales, Navarrete at 2:30 pm.

Details of climb :
13/10 via the Syanche-Glacier to camp near NW Face of Manaslu North
14/10 to ABC at base of SE Face at 5700m
15/10 stayed at camp waiting for better weather
16/11 fixed rope first 100m of face
17/10 rest day
18/10 climb from base (5700m) to bivouac in middle of face (6100m)
19/10 summit and descend to ABC
20/10 waited for better weather
21/10 trek to Dharamsala

Team arrived in Dharamsala (BC) by helicopter on 12 Oct.

On 18 Oct they slept on a little ledge in the middle of the wall (approximately at 6100m). Left 4 bolts, 4 pitons and all anchors on the wall. Climbing the entire face required 17 pitches, they rated it with 5.11r and C2 on clean scale; UIAA: 7, French: 6c (whole face 700m). Head wall from 6200m until 6400m was crux section. Very poor rock quality at headwall, very lose rock. Beautiful climbing at lower part of face, good rock quality.

On summit day they started at 5 am, got to top at 2:30 pm. Stayed on top for maybe 30 minutes, weather was perfect. Snowy summit, cornices. Then abseiled down the whole face in 5-6 hours. No serious rockfall.

Team left BC on 22 Oct.

On the way out they trekked to Dharapani via the Larkya La, then by Jeep to KTM.

Climbing route: SE Face, slightly to the right of Georgian 1st ascent route.

Oxygen use: not taken not used.

Fixed rope: 100m (first 100m, at base of mountain).