원정 개요

BC west of Machhermo on flat spot east of mountain
C1 south of glacier east of mountain
High point at SE Ridge.

Difficult route so fixed 150m rope between BC and high camp and 200m above high camp; now had run out of rope and needed more to finish climb. Also 2 members not well and so climb abandoned. Gombu Sherpa guided team throughout climb.

28th Oct Esapule, Fioretti, and Sabsowitz up from BC for summit push and slept in C1. Sabsowitz not acclimatized well and not feeling strong so stayed at C1 while other 3 went for top on difficult climb 60-70 degrees mixed ice and rock on hard wall onto SE Ridge on mixed rock and ice to top (50 degrees). 60m below summit had to turn back 6:00 pm and beginning to get dark (excellent weather). Now slept in C1 at about 8:30 pm (had headlamps and BC 29 Oct. Now no more time and "coming down in the dark took a lot out of us."

Kendall Dewey left expedition on second day of approach march as he missed his girl friend terribly.