원정 개요

1st BC at 5100m at Hinku Nuptse Glacier
High camp at 5800m at site of Kangtega expedition's BC on Kangtega Glacier
2nd BC on 5800m bottom of West Ridge.

First went through Tangnag village east and then north up Hinku Nuptse Glacier and went to Kangtega normal BC and put camp at 5800m 6th Oct on Kangtega Glacier. Looked at North Face of col (6024m) on route to Peak 43's north side. Face of col too dangerous with mushrooms fluting, etc., so moved high camp at 5800m and left BC in place for porters to move it later and went through Tangnag to new BC at bottom of West Ridge. Fixed 100m of ropes beyond camp on 17th. 18th to top were all member except Riddell who left others on 16th and went to Mera because didn't like objective danger on this part of climb. Roderick, Frank and Normand up rock step (already fixed on 17th) to get out snowy part of West Ridge, on highly corniced ridge, then at 6400m very steep, so crossed onto West Face and up 60-degree snow and ice couloir and then soft snow on face to top. Left at camp at 3:30 am and on top at 4:00 pm and back at camp 1:30 am of 19th. While rapelling down rock step Broderick's left hand hit by rock or ice.

SW Face of mountain has constant falling ice, rock and snow after 7:00 am, so had to move beneath it after leaving Tangnag for west side of mountain and returning to it very early in morning before sun was on it and warming it.