원정 개요

BC at terminal moraine of Kyashar Glacier
1st biv at plateau on west side of glacier above as river on Schneider map
running North into Kyashar Glacier
High point at a north summit.

Stayed at BC with virus infection for few days. 15th made bivouac at 4800m, a walk from BC, then from there tried NE Ridge; they weren't well acclimatized and descended; back at BC 17th April. Decided to put camp not far from biv site and it was pitched on 19th at about 4800m. Another attempt on NE Ridge on 20 April by same 2 men and reached subsidiary summit and took 3 days to do so in series of 3 bivs on ridge to 6300m North summit before descending safely to BC 24 April.

Other 3 climbers then moved up from BC on 26 April and gave face a day to clear of avalanches and on up on 27th evening to a biv at about 17,000 ft and at midnight 27/28 and reached 19,000 ft, where one Czech unwell and all turned back. Were on N Face. Now Czechs had to go home, so climbing finished.


Krajcik - 12 May 88

Team arrived at BC 10 April 1988 and left BC 30 April.
2 who tried N Face via left buttress were Netri and Rehacek.
3 on central couloir were Krajcik, Harding-Roberts and Torok.
5 climbers only.
Would like to return to couloir route.