원정 개요

Mizutani - 17 May 77

All members came back. No accident to members in avalanche C2 28th April. 2 Sherpas in tent and tent broken but Sherpas Ok.

C4 established 27th April 6050m by 4 members. 28th April made route. 29th April attack for summit by Fujimoto and Kono. Left C4 8:00 am and 3 hrs climbing very knife W Ridge. Came back because very dangerous, reached 6150m. Necessary to fix rope all way but more left to fix. Weather no good - snowfall.

With more fixed rope and other route = BC in other place but same ridge.
Leave Kathmandu 25-26th May.


Jha - 9 May 77

From LO: attempt given up on 29th April because 300m long ridge on way to summit was difficult and unfortunately weather wiped out chances for team to make further attempt. Team left 6th May for Jumla and KTM.


Lohni - 1 May 77

C3 22 April 5650m. All well.

4 made camp: Fujimoto, Kai, Morioka and Kono


Mizutani - 12 March 77

Caravan route west from Jumla to Hurikot village to Garpung Khola to BC at 4800m. Caravan about 10 days from BC over North-South Ridge across glaciers and up another North-South Ridge northwards to final West Ridge of their 6440m peak. Peak is east of Phoksundo Lake; local name is Kangchunne. C3 about 6000m;

Summit attack end of April.

Fujimoto, Kona and Nishigaki arrive KTM 14 March.


Yoshinaga - 12 March 77

East of Rashemba and little higher (Tyson fluted Peak) - local name unknown - Kangchunne? < 21,440

1 member and 2 Sherpas to Jumla already.
14th - 1 more member
17th - remaining members including deputy leader to Jumla on scheduled flight. About 20th caravan states. 5-6 days reach last village and from then 3-4 made days to BC before Kagmara La on west side.

6 members and absentee leader. 3 Sherpas including Kitchen (sirdar=Anu Sherpa)
Summit attack end of April - 3 high altitude camps with C3 about 6100m. Top 6440m.

route = North Col of Kagmara and down little into glaciers (here C2). From here 1000m climb up South Face to West Ridge, very narrow snow ridge.