원정 개요

BC at south end of Hinku Glacier
ABC at west end of Hinku Nup Glacier and bottom of North Face
Biv 1 on North Face (center of face)
Biv 2 on face.

From BC acclimatized by climbing to 6200m on point 6261 east of mountain and stayed there nights of 27 and 28 Nov, then return to BC 29 Nov and rested 2 days. 5 Dec up from ABC 8 pitches to biv at 6000m, hanging from wall. 6 Dec 2nd biv at 6300m on face in small snow ledge by Yokohama and in narrow cave by Satoh. 7 Dec abandoned climb because 500m wall above 85-90 degree steepness, had not acclimatized enough and very hard to climb; now strong winds and very cold (-20 degrees). Started down at 8:00 am and arrived at ABC 12:00 noon. Wind got stronger and stronger as descended, so if had continued climb maybe fingers and toes frostbitten. 8th to BC and climb finished. From ABC to BC difficulty from big unstable rocks and took 8 hours to arrive BC.

Best time to climb this wall is end of Nov when ice is formed but no so cold; would take more biv gear and acclimatize at higher altitude in different area before attempting it. May return in 2008.