원정 개요

Approach: Lukla, Namche, Thame, Renjo pass (5300m), Gokyo.

BC 13/04 4750m (Gokyo)
ABC 14/04 4980m
Biv1 22/04 5500m
Biv2 23/04 5600m at the col between Kangchung Sar and Nup (in descent).
Smt 23/04 by both members at 4 pm.


04/04: KTM
07/04: Lukla
09/04: Namche Bazar
10/04: Thame

12/04: Gokyo (via Renjo Pass). Tried to set up BC same as British did in 2019 (Paul Ramsden’s attempt), but global warming made glacier really bad to traverse. So Gokyo was chosen as the BC.

14/04: ABC set afoot of the NW Face. Was difficult to cross the glacier. ABC would be used for gear stashing and scouting the wall. After 8 continuous days of walking, decided to take some rest days.

Acclimatization up to 5500m on the south side of the mountain, with bouldering session at 4800m. Made a reconnaissance of the descent on the south side of the peak, not a descent line to Chola Pass.

Climbing details (22-24 April):

First intended a line straight at the center of the North Face (Ramsden’s attempt in 2019), abandoned due to poor ice conditions. Went further to the right onto the NW Face, in the vicinity of the lines attempted in 2014 by a Czech party (Martin Klestinec, David Kovarik, Tomas Svoboda) up to 5900m, then in 2016 by a Japanese party (Yasushi Yamanoi, Takaaki Furuhata, Manabu Toyama) up to 5650m.

22/04: the previous night, duo slept afoot of the face, coming from Gokyo. At the end of this first climbing day, bivouacked at 5500m.

23/04: climbed 11 pitches on a mixed wall up to the summit’s shoulder. From there reached the summit glacier in 3 pitches, then crossed the summit knife-edge for 3 more pitches (“The summit ridge was longer than we expected”), reaching the summit at 4 pm. They descended to the col between KCHN and KCHS, where they bivouacked. The hardest day.

24/04: went back down to Gokyo.

27/04: packed ABC and went down to Gokyo.

28/04: Gokyo to Namche.

New line: 900m/ED/M5/WI4. Team had great conditions for the climb.

Left ABC/BC on 27/04.

Sherpas: None
Oxygen: Not taken, not used
Records: 1st ascent of the NW Face