원정 개요

Chose route different from Americans route because from reading report of 1980 Japanese expedition understood route Americans also followed was dangerous from avalanching in 7400m zones. Also wanted easier route for young members of this team.

On 15 May summited first party at 1:30 pm and last party at 2:30 pm. All members left top together at 3:00 pm. Shiina very tired and descended slowly and part of top section of route not fixed. At 10:00 pm all 5 men reached top of rope at 8200m and now Shiina sitting but unable to move or talk; others propping him up and massaging him - not on oxygen because team used it only sleeping and not climbing up or down. Tanigawa bivouacked with Shiina, went down but lost route to C4, unable to find section of fixed rope, went too far right. Hirose found route and reached C4 3:30 am 16 May while Okuda, blinded by altitude at 8000m rock band, could not move further and Akasaka maybe fell 50m down snow slope and hit head, bleeding from scalp and mouth. 3:00 am Shiina died in biv. 5:00 am Tanigawa started down and at 6:30 am found Akasaka and both moved down 100m (Tanigawa almost carried him as he stumbled down); then Akasaka could not move down. Rescue party including Tanabe up from C3 and 9:15 am met them at 7900m to C4. At 9:30 am Akasaka died probably of head injuries. Hirose carried oxygen up to Okuda from C4 very slowly and Tanabe up to Okuda at 4:00 pm first also with oxygen. Okuda blind and could not move; now priority is to rescue Okuda who after oxygen use able rope all down. Hirose, Tanigawa, Tanabe and Okuda reached C4 at 5:00 pm and stayed in C4 that night; bodies covered by bivouac sack and snow. 17 May reached C2 and 18 May called for rescue helicopter to C1, but had to descend to Ghunsa to get in helicopter. Okuda very bad frostbite fingers and toes; Tanigawa right toes; Hirose 5 night fingers (Okuda will lose some parts of fingers and toes). These men "not so strong to climb without oxygen." Schiina slipped often and probably hit his head also and died of these injuries probably.

Note: More climbing abandoned on 16 May due to fatalities. 2nd attack planned for 17 May.