원정 개요

BC at normal site (in village this autumn - 100 tents)
High point at below West Col.

Summit bid abandoned because needed fixed ropes which this team's Nima Temba had fixed to 8200m on 7th and now no more ropes left. Accidents of 5-6 Oct discouraged more climbing. Pelle and Bros and 2 Sherpas saw no sign of Chamoux and Royer; Chamoux last seen on 6th going onto north side just above Col, Royer not seen from 5th evening. Martini Blanc told Chamoux's BC personnel they (Italian summiters) had found backpack and harness at col. Chamoux was in race with Loretan for all 8000ers: "it was a fatal challenge for Chamoux" said Bros. Loretan, Troillet, Chamoux and Royer left last camp for summit at same time but Swiss much faster; "Loretan is the best" said Bros. He is very strong. Bros and Pelle in agreemment - agreed with Loretan's account of Chamoux and Royer.