원정 개요

BC 06 Apr 5500m
C1 16 Apr 6200m
C2 21 Apr 6500m
C3 19 May 7500m
Smt 20 May by Zhang, Liu, Mingma and Phu Dorchi at 3:45 pm.

Summit team left 7 pm on 19 May. The fixed rope was finished at 8100m. They roped up together. The way to summit was difficult and over a lot of rock, so they belayed each other or used old rope. They spent about 20 minutes on summit. On descent, Mingma, Liu and Zhang roped up, but Phu Dorchi did not and went down on his own.

Phu Dorchi must have slipped at about 8000m and died. When the rest of the team came down, they did not know what had happened, only when they got back to C3 at 2 am on 21 May, they noticed that Phu Dorchi was not there. The descent was very slow as Liu was suffering from HACE and had difficulties going down. Mingma took him on a short rope.

They slept at C3 for a few hours and descended to BC. They left at 8 am and got to BC at about 7 pm. Liu was feeling better again and was able to walk on his own again.

They did not find Phu Dorchi’s body.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Zhang, Liu and Mingma
Taken and used from C3 to top to point of death by Phu Dorchi

Sherpas:
Mingma Sherpa, Makalu
Phu Dorchi, Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun, 30/4/82